Questions About Biodiesel
Are there any modifications required in my diesel vehicle to use my biodiesel?
How can I verify that the biodiesel I make is safe enough to use in my diesel engine?
Will my biodiesel void my diesel engine’s warranty?
Can I use my biodiesel for other diesel fueled devices, such as home heating oil furnaces?
Can I mix my biodiesel with regular petroleum diesel?
How safe is biodiesel to handle? What about spills?
How long can I store biodiesel?
Am I responsible to pay fuel tax? If so, how much and how do I pay it?
Sources of Used Vegetable Oil
Is there a hierarchy of preference for used vegetable oil?
How can I tell whether the oil I plan to use is suitable for making biodiesel?
Why does each batch require a different amount of chemicals (titration)?
How much will I have to pay for used cooking oil?
What happens when all the free used oil is gobbled up by others?
What to do with By-Product
How do I get rid of all the glycerin I’ll be accumulating from making biodiesel?
Is there a simple way to recover some of the methanol used in the eh process?
Is there a simple way to purify the raw glycerin to the point where it becomes marketable?
Processing
What can go wrong in making biodiesel?
How can I fix a problem batch?
How can I prevent problem batches in the future?
Why does the FuelMeister use mist washing rather than the more popular bubble washing method?
Do I always have to wash my biodiesel, and how much?
Will I have to touch any chemicals or be exposed to nasty fumes?
Equipment
What size processor do I need?
How much space will the whole setup take?
Where should I place my processor?
How long will it take to recoup my investment in a FuelMeister II processor?
Wouldn’t it be cheaper for me to just make my own processor?
Supplies
How much will the supplies cost and where can I get them?
What exactly do I need to make biodiesel, besides what’s included with the FuelMeister II?
What are the regulations regarding storing methanol and biodiesel?
What should I do during cold weather?
Questions About Biodiesel
Are there any modifications required in my diesel vehicle to use my biodiesel?
In most cases you can start using biodiesel immediately without any modification. The only exception is older (pre-1989 diesels) may have natural rubber fuel lines which are susceptible to slow degradation with biodiesel. Just replace these with current synthetic fuel lines, and you’re done. We also recommend that you replace your fuel filter after your first tank of biodiesel, since biodiesel is a very good solvent and will scrub out all the tars, varnishes and gums left by fossil diesel in your fuel system.
How can I verify that the biodiesel I make is safe enough to use in my diesel engine?
First, the biodiesel/glycerin should have a very clean and distinct separation without a third layer. Second, doing a simple miscibility test of your biodiesel with an equal amount of water in a jar to see how fast the biodiesel separates from the water will give a very sensitive indication of how pure it is.
Will my biodiesel void my diesel engine’s warranty?
Most major diesel vehicle manufacturers have already acknowledged that biodiesel will NOT void your warranty. Check with your dealer or diesel mechanic for further details. Companies such as Cummins, Caterpillar, New Holland, and John Deere have extensively tested biodiesel and are strong supporters.
Can I use my biodiesel for other diesel fueled devices, such as home heating oil furnaces?
Biodiesel can be safely used in ANY device which can use #2 diesel fuel or home heating oil, including cars, trucks, tractors, generators, pumps, heaters and home furnaces.
Can I mix my biodiesel with regular petroleum diesel?
You can mix biodiesel in ANY ratio, back and forth, with no problems.
How safe is biodiesel to handle? What about spills?
Biodiesel is non-toxic, fully biodegradable and safety to store than petrol-diesel.
How long can I store biodiesel?
Biodiesel can be stored for years provided that it is kept free of condensation and bacteriological growths (just add a common diesel biocide)
Am I responsible to pay fuel tax? If so, how much and how do I pay it?
Depending upon what state you live in, you may be responsible for paying any applicable “road use” taxes on the biodiesel you make. You are responsible for contacting your state officials to determine your state’s current laws regarding road use tax. (However, this has posed no issues)
Sources of Used Vegetable Oil
Is there a hierarchy of preference for used vegetable oil?
Yes, oil which has been used to cook: 1) only vegetables (fries, tempura, etc.); 2) fish; 3) chicken; 4) beef and pork. For the best quality biodiesel, avoid oils mixed with lard, tallow, grill scrapings or any other waste animal fat.
How can I tell whether the oil I plan to use is suitable for making biodiesel?
The two most important factors are water content and Free-Fatty Acids (FFA) from animal fats or over-use of oil. Water content can be checked by simply boiling a sample of oil in a fraying pan and looking for bubbles from evaporating water (bad oil: either don’t use or dry thoroughly). FFA content can be checked first by simply asking what’s been cooked in the oil, then doing a simple pH test to see how heavily used it is.
Why does each batch require a different amount of chemicals (titration)?
Different oils will have a different amount of Free Fatty Acids (FFA’s) in them (based on how extensively they’re used). These acids must be neutralized and any additional catalyst must be added to make the biodiesel reaction happen. It’s an easy test, but a very important one to get the best results.
How much will I have to pay for used cooking oil?
In most cases a restaurant will be happy to simply give you their used oil, since they would otherwise have to pay to dispose of it.
What happens when all the free used oil is gobbled up by others?
There are over 3 BILLION gallons of used cooking oil produced EVERY YEAR in the US alone. It is best to establish a good working relationship with the restaurant(s) you are collecting from. After a good relationship ahs been established, you may want to draw up a simple, long-term collection contract with the restaurant owner/manager.
What to do with By-Product
How do I get rid of all the glycerin I’ll be accumulating from making biodiesel?
You have several choices: 1) evaporate the methanol and compost the rest; 2) recover the methanol and compost the rest; 3) recover the methanol and purify the glycerin, then compost the rest; 4) use it as a shop cleaner and degreaser.
Is there a simple way to recover some of the methanol used in the eh process?
You can use a pressure-cooker with a condenser to collect boiled methanol. Recovery is about 20% of what you used in your last batch of biodiesel.
Is there a simple way to purify the raw glycerin to the point where it becomes marketable?
Not really. You have to raise the temperature VERY high, and perform special processes to get market-grade glycerin.
Processing
What can go wrong in making biodiesel?
The two most common mistakes are: a) using the wrong amount of lye, and b) excessive agitating of the water during the biodiesel wash cycle. Both of these mistakes can be easily avoided with simple procedures and modest attention to details.
How can I fix a problem batch?
Diagnosing a problem batch is fairly simple, but recovering the batch may be difficult. Please refer to the FuelMeister™ Instruction Manual for more details.
How can I prevent problem batches in the future?
It’s easy to get consistently good results by following the methods and procedures in the FuelMeister™ Instruction Manual.
Why does the FuelMeister use mist washing rather than the more popular bubble washing method?
Mist washing is less likely to disturb the biodiesel which could cause a water/soap/biodiesel emulsion which is VERY difficult to separate. It also takes up much less processor capacity than bubble washing, allowing the full batch to be washed right after glycerin draining.
Do I always have to wash my biodiesel, and how much?
It depends. Some biodiesel producers have been using unwashed biodiesel for years with out apparent problems. Others believe the only ASTM quality biodiesel should be used in your applications. It has recently been reported that highly-washed biodiesel can attract microbial growths (algae) which can foul fuel systems. A pH which is slightly higher (basic) than pure water will suppress most microbial growth. Therefore, we recommend you wash your biodiesel until the wash water is no longer solid milk-white but only murky white. The pH should be approximately 8:0 which is indicates quite clean biodiesel while remaining a poor medium for algae growth.
Can I make partial batches?
The FuelMeister™ is designed and set up to make either full or half-batches for your convenience.
Will I have to touch any chemicals or be exposed to nasty fumes?
The FuelMeister™ is a closed system, meaning that you do not have to touch or pour any liquid chemicals. Even the methoxide fumes are filtered out when pre-mixing your catalyst. WE ALWAYS STRESS THE USE OF PROPER PROCEDURES AND SAFETY EQUIPMENT BY RESPONSIBLE OPERATORS WHENEVER MAKING BIODIESEL. In fact, we provide the necessary safety equipment with your FuelMeister kit.
Equipment
What size processor do I need?
It’s based on supply and storage logistics. Our processor assumes you’re working with 1 barrel of oil and 1 barrel for biodiesel storage/delivery.
How much space will the whole setup take?
The processor size is 62” high x 25” diameter. Then you’ll need a barrel each for oil, methanol and biodiesel, for a total of approximately 25 sq. ft.
Where should I place my processor?
Find a sheltered, secure and well-ventilated spot out of the flow of traffic.
How long will it take to recoup my investment in a FuelMeister II processor?
Depending upon what part of the country you live in, petroleum diesel sells for about $4.15 per gallon today. Your cost of making your own biodiesel is about 75¢ (assuming free used oil). At $3.50 per gallon savings, it won’t be long before your processor pays for itself. Gather a few friends and family members and your investment is repaid even quicker!
Wouldn’t it be cheaper for me to just make my own processor?
Some people choose to build their own processor, but find it takes a LOT more time and effort than they expected. Ask yourself this question: Would you prefer to invest your time in building a processor or making biodiesel? The FuelMeister products are able to provide you with ASTM quality fuel, a patent pending Direct Catalyst Injection Lid and excellent technical support.
Supplies
How much will the supplies cost and where can I get them?
Used liquid cooking oil is widely available for free from your local restaurants. You want oil that is liquid at room temperature when new. Racing methanol is around $1.50-$3.00 per gallon, but you only need 8 gallons to make 40 gallons of biodiesel. Lye is about $3.00 per pound at the hardware or grocery store, but closer to a $1.25 per pound in 50 pound bulk bags. You need abut 1.2 - 2 lbs per 40 gallons. Methanol can be purchased from chemical supply companies, racing suppliers, bulk oil suppliers and even farmer’s co-op’s. Lye is commonly known as a caustic soda or sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and can be purchased as Red Devil Lye or in bulk bags from chemical supply companies. Use beaded or granular, avoid liquid and flakes.
What exactly do I need to make biodiesel, besides what’s included with the FuelMeister II?
You’ll need: a barrel with at least 20 gallons of vegetable oil, a barrel of at least 10 gallons of 95%+ of methanol, a clean empty barrel to store your biodiesel, an AC outlet, a water hose attached to a faucet and a water hose led to a drain.
What are the regulations regarding storing methanol and biodiesel?
If you treat y our barrels of methanol and biodiesel as you would a barrel of gasoline, you’ll be safe. Check with your local Fire Marshall about your local safety regulations for storing gasoline (such as for use with an emergency generator).
What should I do during cold weather?
Pure biodiesel (B100) will gel in cold weather. When the temperature is above freezing, 32°F, you can generally run B100. When the temperature drops below freezing, you should do one or more of the following: use a biodiesel flow improver; physically warm the fuel using tank, fuel line and/or filter beaters, or park your vehicle in a warm place at night; blend with #1 and/or #2 petro-diesel. Generally a blend of 50/50 biodiesel and #1 petro-diesel will flow down to 0°F. A blend of 50/50 biodiesel and #2 petro-diesel with the correct anti-get will also flow down to 0°F.
Several factors can have an influence on the cloud, cold filter plugging point (CFPP) and gel point of your biodiesel, as well as the flow in your vehicle. These factors include: saturation level and type of the veggie oil the biodiesel was made from, whether anti-gel was added to the biodiesel and/other petro-diesel mix, size of fuel lines, amount of work fuel returned by your vehicle to the fuel tank, size and placement of fuel filter on your vehicle, whether your vehicle has a fuel pre-heater, etc.
It is better to be safe than sorry concerning gelling and use extra petro-diesel in the blend. A B20 blend will generally gel at a very similar rate as the petro-diesel it is blended with, including any anti-gel agent.
Many people “winterize” their biodiesel by placing a drum of it outside during cold temperatures and then drawing off the top of the drum. The lighter weight “winter” biodiesel will be on top while the heaver “summer” biodiesel goes to the bottom of the drum.
We recommend Power Service brand biodiesel anti-gel additives when blending petro-diesel with biodiesel. We also recommend Artic Fox brand products if you decide to heat your vehicles fuel system. Please call or email if you have additional questions concerning cold weather use.